I am going to be working heavily with a certain raw material named immortelle absolute over the next few months, so I have been doing my research on it. In perfume it is a raw material that has been described as having the following characteristics: straw-like, dusty, syrupy, burnt. I find the odour to be somewhat similar to sweet fenugreek. It is used primarily in Chypres and Orientals. In medicine the flowers are used to make an infusion for the treatment of gall bladder disorders, as a diuretic. It is commonly used as an herbal tea used for medicinal purposes in the Middle East and Mediterranean regions.
It has been used in quite a few perfumes to date, so I will try and publish as complete a list as I can as I will be sniffing all of them shorty :)
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Annick Goutal - Sables
Balmain - Ambre Gris
Boucheron - Initial
Christian Dior - Eau Noire
Diesel - Fuel for life
Escada - Magnetism
Lolita Lempicka - L
L’Atelier Bohème - Immortelle
Guerlain - Coriolan
Guerlain - Cuir Beluga
Guerlain - No. 68
Gobin Daude - Biche dans l'Absinthe
Iunx - Léau Interdite
Mona di Oiro - Oiro
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Seems as though this is quite a popular material with the team at Guerlain :)
